Dog Agility Training

Not all dog owners will find that the particular breed they’re raising is suitable for dog agility training.  Sometimes it’s the breed, but other times it’s the puppy itself who must be assessed for agility potential. 

Each puppy will have a different temperament within the litter.  If you’re considering purchasing a puppy based on its ability to train for agility, then you’ll want to do more than focus on one puppy test.

It often takes multiple tests to determine if a puppy has it in him to succeed with agility training.  Not only can a one-time test mislead you into believing a puppy does not have what it takes to train successfully, but sometimes a puppy will display a characteristic one day that makes you feel he would adapt well to training, and yet it never surfaces again.

Testing for a puppy’s agility training potential has to be carried out by a trained professional who is experienced in this field.  A professional will understand how to truly assess an entire litter equally.

That means giving each one the same chance to perform based on alertness, exact testing areas, hunger, and more.  You can’t take one puppy who has just woken up from a nap and been fed test against a sleepy puppy who’s hungry because the attention of each dogs will be vastly different.

It’s best if the person giving you an assessment of your puppy’s potential for agility training is the same one raising the dogs on a daily basis.  This gives the breeder an edge in seeing how the puppies’ personalities develop.

Dog Agility Training – Picking From Your Own Litter

If you are the one raising a litter and want to pick out a puppy for agility training, watch their routines for signs of their potential.  If there always one puppy who’s first in line for everything…the food or water bowl, the door to go outside, or the chance to get some attention from its handler…then that puppy may be a good choice for dog agility training.

You’ll want to choose a puppy that submits to your commands easily and doesn’t fight back or make it difficult during grooming sessions.  These are the best puppy tests to determine if your little dog has it in him to continue agility training.

Other factors you’ll want to consider are how well the puppy jumps, since jumping is a key factor in dog agility training.  You can look to the puppy’s parents for signs of whether this dog will handle jumping easily. Overall observation during a period of time longer than one session is required to determine is a puppy is suitable for agility training.

Basic dog training - Does your dog know what you want from him?

Basic Dog Training

If you are just get started with basic dog training, chances are that you will make some of the common mistakes listed below. Hopefully this article helps you to learn more about how dog training basics work from your dog’s perspective and how to have more fun and success when training your dog.

To start let me make clear that I am by no stretch of the imagination a perfect dog trainer All mistakes, bar one, I have committed myself occasionally while training my own dogs or while helping others to train theirs! If you don’t have the time to read the whole article, please read at least the next paragraph, it is the single most common mistake I see people making with their dogs on a daily basis! Never making this mistake again will immensely improve the relationship you have with your dog and it’s behavior of your dog .

Your Dog Comes to You And Bad Things Happen…

Example 1: Owner calls dog, dog takes his sweet time to come and when he finally comes owner tells dog off for not coming quicker.

Example 2: Owner calls dog mostly when it is time to go home., i.e. an unpleasant experience (end of fun) follows directly after being called to the owner.

Mistake: The crucial mistake here is that dogs always connect the last thing they did, or what happened to them, with the owners next reaction to it. Dogs don’t think like this: “Oh, I didn’t come quick enough, next time I have to come faster!” or “Ok, we go home now, I hope there is something nice for dinner planned!”

Dogs live only in the present, not in the past, not in the future when it comes to learning. That is not to say that past experiences don’t have an influence on a dog, far from it! The more often, for example, you tell your dog off for coming reluctantly, the more reluctantly he will come each time you call! This is especially important when you start with how to train a dog to come. But if you want to change any behavior…or teach a completely new one…this holds true and the dog makes only a connection between his first action (arriving at your feet) and your following action (telling your dog off). Got it? OK, you might now want to read on or leave, in any case always keep this golden rule of dog training number one in mind:

Your dog makes only a connection between his last action and your immediate re-action to it. Anything else simply doesn’t connect in the canine universe …

What to Do Instead:

Call your dog frequently to you, at home, outside, on the leash, off leash and reward him royally every single time he comes. Start easy and set your dog up for success, call him only when your are sure that he will come and add distractions and distance slowly and carefully. When doing basic dog training like this off leash, keep a long-trailing leash on your dog’s harness so that you have a security line in case he doesn’t come or something unexpected happens. Make sure that coming to you is the best thing that your dog could do, because great things, from the dogs point of view, happen when he comes to you.

And if you train any other behaviors, make sure that:

Your immediate reaction directly follows the dog’s actions. And that you therefore only re-enforce the behavior you do want to re-enforce. And yes, make you’re actions a reward for your dog!

Your Are Refusing Reward and Bribing …

Example: You are waving a hotdog while calling your dog to come.

Mistake: You are bribing your dog, not rewarding it.

What to Do Instead:

By all means, reward your dog every time he shows a behavior you want to encourage, but follow this order: Command => Behavior + Marker (verbal or clicker) => Reward. This way you show the dog that certain behaviors result in good things happening. Bribing your dog is not training him to do a certain behavior, it is putting before him the decision of if he wants to perform the behavior or not, depending on the bribe. Rewarding him, on the other hand, with food, games or a toy to play with is rewarding the desired behavior he has already shown.

You Decide What a High Value Reward Is Not Your Dog …

Some dogs are not motivated by food, others couldn’t care less about playing  tug-of-war. If you choose the wrong reward, your dog will feel ‘under-paid’ and less motivated during training lessons. Make a list of things that your dogs like (praise, ear scratchies, favorite foods, toys/games) and find out which ones work the best. Always have some really high value rewards at hand to reward outstanding performance!

Your Timing is Off …

Like I wrote above, dogs connect the latest thing they did with your reaction to it. If your reaction is too slow or too early, the dog will connect the wrong things. This means that your reaction has to directly follow (max. 1-2 seconds after) your dogs’ behavior.

You Talk Too Much …

Example: Your dog barks and you preach him a ‘sermon’ on the lines of: ‘I rescued you from the human society, I give you food and treats, I keep you warm and comfy and take you for great walks every day – And you drive me nuts by barking like a mad dog.’ Translated into ‘doggish’, this is what your dog hears:

‘Ruff Ruff Ruff Ruff Ruff Ruff Ruff, Ruff Ruff Ruff food Ruff treats, Ruff Ruff Ruff Ruff Ruff Ruff Ruff Ruff Ruff Ruff Ruff walks Ruff Ruff – Ruff Ruff Ruff Ruff Ruff Ruff Ruff Ruff Ruff Ruff Ruff.’

See the problem? Your dog doesn’t understand what you are saying and is most likely completely confused because your using the words he knows, and that are positive for him, in an unhappy voice. By all means speak to your dog frequently…preferable with a happy and positive voice…but when it comes to communicating what you want, use clear commands and don’t waffle.

Too Many Repetitions or Too Much Variety…

Every dog is different when it comes to learning new, and maintaining established, behaviors. Some dogs need a lot of repetitions until they have things ‘paws down’, others get bored easily and wander of, mentally or physically, as if they wanted to say ‘I know that already, boring, can we move on?’. Learning to know your dog is also learning to know how your dog learns. Keep training sessions short and fun for both of you and if you want to work on another trick or behavior, changing the setting (go to another room for example) so that your dog knows something new is coming.

The following two basic dog training mistakes are the ones I catch myself making embarrassingly often …

You are Not Teaching a Release Command …

Example: ‘Down!’ Dog lies down. You walk away and for a time the dog stays ‘down’, but sooner or later your dog will want to go up and creep out of the ‘down stay’.

Funny Example:

I trained one of my dogs to balance a treat on his nose and to wait with catching or eating it until I gave the command. One day, as I just had placed a treat on his nose, the telephone rang and I answered it. As I turned around several minutes later, my poor dog was sitting their with his eyes crossed and trying to stare at the treat on his nose. I gave the release command rather quickly and giggly …

How to avoid this mistake:

You need to teach your dog with each trick or behavior that requires duration, i.e. your dog performing it for some time, simultaneously the release command. This way you become predictable and reliable in the eyes of your dog. So, for example, say ‘down’ and release your dog when he is allowed to go up with ‘free’, ‘ok’ or whatever word you choose.

You Use One Command for Different Things …

Dogs jumps on furniture and you say, understandably ‘DOWN!’, but you also use this word to tell your dog to lay down on the floor. Chances are that your dog, in this situation, after hearing ‘DOWN!’ is laying down – on the furniture. And who could blame him? In the end he is doing what you told him to, laying down where he is. I think you can figure the solution to this one out on your own

Just a hint, my dog now knows what ‘Off’ means …

I am sure there are more basic dog training mistakes around that I forgot to list in this article. Care to share them in a comment? Funny stories and funny mistakes are especially welcome!

How to train a dog to come like this one, fast and happy.

How to Train a Dog to Come

Do you admire those dogs that come with lightning fast speed every single time when their owners calls? Have you ever wondered how to train a dog to come, no matter what the circumstances? Teaching a dog to come reliably is actually quite easy and can be done by even the most novice dog owner without any problems by following the steps outlined in this article. And best of all the method used is completely positive for both you and your dog. Here we go:

What You Need When Teaching a Dog to Come

• One Dog: If you have more than one dog, train them separately, at least in the beginning.

• Rewards: You need really high-value rewards for that one, this doesn’t necessarily mean food, it can also mean a special squeaky toy, a really long belly rub session or similar, but remember it is the dog that determines how high the value of a reward is for him, not you

• A Signal: I prefer to use a normal, audible whistle, not a ‘silent’ one, one like those used in gun dog training and handling. Using a whistle has many advantages over using your voice…for example it always sounds the same and can’t be used ‘by accident’! If you insist to use a voice command it needs to be distinguishable from all the others you use and unlikely to be used by accident. Alternatively you can just whistle yourself

• Patience: To really make this behavior ‘bombproof’ you need to train it frequently and increase its difficulty for the dog very slowly. This takes time, but the result is well worth investing all the patience you have.

Understanding the Underlaying Principle of Teaching Your Dog to Come

What you are teaching your dog with this method is that hearing the ‘magic signal’ to come to you is the best news ever, because glorious things are going to happen! By slowly increasing the criteria you will cement this behavior into your dog and in the end, your dog will come on your signal no matter what else is going on because he has learned that being called to you is the best thing to wish for and has become an irresistible reflex for him.

Setting Your Dog Up For Success

No matter how old your dog is, a puppy or a senior, training dogs to come has nothing to do with their age, but all to do with setting your dog up for success every single time! By doing so your dog will learn faster and retain what he learned better. When training absolute recall you need to start with baby steps and progress at your dog’s speed.

Training Steps

Start at home, with no distractions around. This means put all toys away and, if you have other dogs, crate them while you work with one dog at a time. Let your dog or puppy wander around freely, sooner or later he will move towards you, now whistle ONCE softly. Chances are good that your dog or puppy will come to you and wants to investigate what this funny new sound means. The moment your dog arrives at your feet absolutely lavish him with praise, treats and rewards. Let the dog wander off again and repeat. Very soon your dog will speed up coming to you when hearing the whistle, when this has happened a few times you can give the whistle signal even when the dog is not already moving towards you. In the beginning call or whistle softly until your dog knows that it means something good close to you is about to happen, but then increase the loudness to the point you plan to use in future. Some dogs are afraid/scared by sudden new sounds around them, but this can be overcome easily by connecting the sound with something good (in the dogs eyes!).

As soon as the dog knows what the whistle means, whistle only one single time per training session to make the whole event more memorable for him.

Adding Distraction and Distance

Train first in the house and increase the criteria (distance and distraction) slowly. Only call/whistle once and reward royally as soon as the dog arrives at your feet. Your dog is ready for the next step if you notice that he is really speeding up coming to you and/or interrupts whatever he is doing at that moment. It is really crucial to start very easy and increase the criteria in baby steps. You need to control the environment in such a manner that your dog is absolutely set-up for success and comes every single time you called. Below are some ideas and tips how to increase the criteria slowly and remember to only increase them if your dog shows the desired behavior (coming to you at full speed and instantly) perfectly and repeatedly with lower criteria.

• You want to practice this behavior under as many different circumstances as possible, with one exception: Never call your dog away when he is eating his meal.

• When taking the training outside, always attach a long trailing leash to his harness, this way, if things go wrong, you still can get your dog with the help of the leash.

Here some ideas on how to increase the criteria:

• At home, you and the dog in the same room, no distractions present.

• Both of you in the same room with distractions present (toys, calm kids or pets etc).

• At home with both of you being in different rooms, adding distance and distraction gradually.

• In the garden/backyard (fenced!), adding distance and distraction gradually.

• In the dog park or any area where a dog can run off leash, adding distance and distraction gradually.

How often to train a dog to come

That depends partly on the dog, but the training sessions should be very frequent, around a dozen times each day normally works best . This is especially important in the beginning, until your dog really understands that the whistle means ‘Great things are about to happen near my owner’. It is also important to space training sessions well out over the day, one training session should only consist of one whistle/signal + praise and rewards + release. That is an exercise dogs learn better when not repeated shortly one after another, but at random intervals during the day.

Maintenance Training

Once you have trained this behavior and your dog performs it to perfection you still need to maintain this perfect performance. Simply give the ‘magic signal’ a couple of times a day, one time inside and one time outside to avoid it fading from your dog’s memory. If you notice that the response becomes ‘sluggish’ train more often, lower the criteria and up the rewards until you are back to a perfect turn around and coming full speed to you performance.

Solving Frequent Problems

My dog is afraid of the whistle/sound/signal I choose.

Either choose another sound, one your dog is more comfortable with, or start at a lower volume and drop treats every time. Similar to the clicker, the whistle needs to be connected, in the dog’s mind, with ‘good things’. As soon as it ‘clicks’ with the dog that the whistle means a really great reward is awaiting him, he will stop being afraid of it and eagerly anticipate it.

What do I do when my dog doesn’t come?

First of all, do nothing! This might seem counter-intuitive for those that have learned a more traditional style of dog training (reward good behavior + punish bad behavior = good dog) but it is really counterproductive as any ‘punishment’ will transmit the message to the dog that sometimes bad things come from you. Simply go and get your dog…he is wearing a long trailing leash on his harness when outside, isn’t he?…and calmly do something else with him. Not coming when the whistle sounds should mean simply ‘Oops, missed a great reward!’, nothing else! After a while you can go back to training this behavior, bearing in mind that most likely the dog not coming has happened because you have increased the criteria too fast and raised too high and/or your latest reward was not really great in your dog’s eyes. Go two steps back reducing distance and distractions and provide a really big prize for coming. Soon you will be back on track and can increase the criteria again, this time much more slowly please.

My dog did come beautifully at home, but will not come outside.

Same as above, plus make sure to do the first few training sessions outside in an area your dog finds boring and with only a short distance between you. Remember a dog is distracted by things we don’t notice, like smells etc, so make sure your first outside training is really in a boring environment.

What distinguishes this method from ‘normal recall training’?

Unless you are a very self-disciplined trainer, chances are that you yourself get ‘sluggish’ over time. This can happen with using a signal/command too often, mixing it up with other signals you give, not rewarding properly etc. Interestingly I have observed that dogs that have been trained an emergency recall signal/command will also come faster when called by name or ‘here’, the reason being that they have learned that good things happen when coming in general and that coming to you always results in a pleasant experience for them. Having a ‘bombproof’ emergency recall trained with your dog that…a part of maintenance training…you only use rarely, and reward heavily each single time, is an invaluable tool to have at hand.

And here for your convenience is a checklist of:

Do’s and Don’ts of How to Train a Dog to Come (Absolute Recall)

Do’s

• Only whistle once.

• Only use high value rewards.

• Space training session out and keep them very short.

• Train often.

• Vary your rewards from session to session.

Don’ts

• Don’t, ever, punish or tell your dog off for coming slowly or not at all.

• Don’t let the dog make a connection between whistle/signal with something unpleasant, like being put on the leash and going home/end of fun.

• Don’t whistle more than once.

It really takes some time to bombproof this behavior and cement the reflex into a dog’s brain, but it is well worth the effort! Imagine the following situation:

Your walking near a busy road with your dog on leash and suddenly a feral cat/squirrel appears and your dog bolts and you let the leash slip out of your hand and the dog is running free, chasing the squirrel/cat and is in danger of running onto a busy road. Then imagine that you now whistle and your dog turns around immediately and comes running up to you full speed.

Knowing how to train a dog to come, and doing it!, can mean the difference between life and death for your canine companion …

Discouraging behaviors in your canine requires knowing what factors prompt the behaviors in the first place. For example, dogs bark for many reasons, including fear and boredom. Successfully curbing the habit requires knowing whether the animal is afraid or bored. This is also the case with a puppy chewing everything within their reach. Unless you understand the reasons your puppy is doing so, your efforts to discourage the habit may prove fruitless.

Below, we’ll describe the most common factors that motivate puppies to chew. Along the way, you’ll notice that different approaches are needed to influence the behavior. We’ll also provide several suggestions for molding your pup’s chewing obsession.

Puppy Chewing To Explore

In many ways, puppies are similar to babies. Babies routinely place items in their mouths in order to investigate their immediate surroundings. Puppies also do this. They chew things in order to find out more about them.

Sometimes, a puppy will seem to have little preference about the object he is chewing. A shoe, book, magazine, or cardboard box offer similar appeal. Other times, the puppy chewing is more focused. He may become curious about a particular item, and ignore all others.

Puppy Chewing While Teething

When a pup is teething, the eruption of his new adult teeth causes him discomfort. Chewing on objects provides relief. It reduces irritation, and helps to remove the first set of teeth. In most puppies, teething will occur between the third month and ninth month. A pup will often place everything he can into his mouth during this period.

Your puppy may find cold items to be particularly soothing. For example, dampen an old t-shirt, and place it into your freezer. Once it cools, allow your pup to chew on it. You can also purchase frozen rings made for teething puppies at most pet supply stores.

Chewing Stemming From Stress

Another trigger for chewing is anxiety. It can affect puppies and adult canines. If your puppy is anxious about something in his environment, he may chew on objects in order to cope with the stress.

You might observe this behavior during a thunderstorm, or when there is loud noises nearby. Some puppies’ stress-related chewing stems from being separated from their owners. Once the stimulus that is causing the stress is removed, the chewing may stop.

Ideas For Shaping Your Puppy’s Chewing Habit

It is important to realize that your puppy is unaware that he is doing something wrong when he chews. The behavior is natural to him, and starts early in life, when he is still with his mother and littermates. Be patient with him.

It’s also worth highlighting that shaping the habit may be more appropriate than discouraging it outright. For example, recall that chewing provides relief when your puppy is teething. Rather than trying to curb the behavior, provide items he can chew on.

First, puppy-proof your home. Remove shoes, clothes, electrical cords, and other items you want your pup to avoid chewing. It may also be a good idea to restrict his whereabouts with baby gates and other barriers. Left to explore your home, he’ll likely chew something unsupervised.

Second, provide him a few chew toys. Not only will they allow him to work off energy, but they’ll distract him from chewing objects you would like to protect. If you see him chewing something other than a chew toy, immediately correct the behavior by removing the inappropriate items, and replacing it with the toy.

Third, make sure your puppy receives plenty of exercise. Puppies with pent-up energy are more likely to chew. Providing exercise will tire your pup out, making him less inclined to do so.

Chewing is a natural behavior in puppies. Determine the reasons your puppy is doing it, and use the suggestions above to modify the habit to help stop the dog chewing.

How To Stop A Puppy From Biting With Proper Training

If you’re the proud owner of a new puppy, you will have likely noticed that your puppy enjoys mouthing or nipping at things. Some owners may see such behaviour as cute, while others may disallow the behaviour all together. Neither approach is ideal. When your puppy is young, although those little teeth are still sharp, the puppy’s jaw hasn’t developed enough strength to cause any real damage. Now is the time to train your puppy to have a “soft mouth”. A dog who has strong bite inhibition will be much safer as an adult.

Remember, there are two ways that a puppy will have the potential to inflict injury from a bite as an adult:

• You stop dog biting completely, therefore the puppy never learns what bite inhibition is.
• You allow your puppy to bite, but don’t do the necessary training to teach your puppy to have a soft mouth.

In a family situation, puppies learn bite inhibition from their mother and litter-mates. But unless you leave your puppy with its family for the first four months or so of its life, it’s unlikely that they will have completely learned about bite inhibition. This is where you have to take over their training.

Puppies learn bite inhibition based on feedback they receive from their litter-mates on their biting technique. If a puppy bites too hard, the litter-mate will yelp in pain and stop playing immediately. The puppy quickly learns that he will only get rewarded (with play) if he learns to control the strength of his bite.

If we want to teach bite inhibition, we likewise want to allow our puppy to bite us during play, and then immediately stop play if he bites too hard. This is done while the puppy is still very young- before their jaws gain strength and their adult canines grow.

• Play with your puppy, allowing him to bite your arms or hands. Do not allow your puppy to bite your clothes, as you will not be able to feel the strength of his bite.
• As soon as you feel your puppy bite too hard, immediately shout “Ouch!” in a yelp-like way (not angry), loud enough to startle your puppy. Discontinue play with your puppy straight away, and wait until your puppy backs down.
• Resume play. If your puppy bites too hard once again, repeat the yelp and then immediately leave the room. Your puppy will start to realise that if he bites too hard, play will stop.
• Come back to your puppy and resume play. Slowly, you will want to decrease the amount of force your puppy puts into his bites. Even if a bite doesn’t hurt, if it is stronger than his other bites you must repeat the above process until your puppy eliminates that level of bite pressure.

Teaching your dog bite inhibition while training a puppy will stop your dog biting with the pressure required to cause damage to people or animals.

Related Terms: training puppies, puppy chewing, how to stop a puppy from biting

The sight of a perfectly-groomed dog walking beside a confident owner as the pair claims Best in Show is the epitome of success for many breeders and dog lovers. If you’d like to eventually compete in one of these illustrious events, here are seven ways to get started with dog shows:

1. Attend a Show

Watching a dog show on TV is exciting, but it’s nothing like actually being there. By attending in person, you can see the groomers in action, pay close attention to the judges, and see the less exciting, but equally important, parts of the show.

2. Join a Local Kennel Club

Membership at a local kennel club gives newcomers access to a wealth of information. In addition to learning the ropes from the more experienced members, you can get the inside scoop on the best training classes, take a closer look at the local show circuit, and get your feet wet in a practice match. When choosing a kennel club, decide first whether you prefer an organization that represents a single breed or multiple breeds before joining.

3. Research Before Buying a Dog

Buying any animal is a big decision and a major investment. Before purchasing a dog for any reason, research the breed to make an informed decision. Although every individual dog has its own distinct personality, certain breeds have specific tendencies and potential health problems you may want to avoid. For example, most people prefer either a high- or low-energy dog; if you make the wrong choice in this area, neither of you will be happy.
Above all else, select an animal that can be registered with the organization that you’re interested in working with, usually the AKC or UKC. When looking at puppies, bring a list of the disqualifying faults for the breed. Although everything won’t be apparent until the dog matures, this list can serve as an important reminder to be on the lookout for certain defects.

4. Train Your Dog

Training is a must for any dog that has any hope of competing in a dog show. Start off with basic obedience training and move on to agility training. By starting early, your dog will know how to behave and will actually enjoy following your commands. Remember, part of training the dog is training the owner.

5. Learn the Basics of Dog Showing

An owner with the most beautiful and obedient dog has little chance of doing well at a dog show without knowing how to effectively show a dog. If you join a kennel club, they should have information on breed and conformation handling training. Otherwise, ask a handler at a dog show for a recommendation.

6. Consider Using a Professional

If you’re trying to build your reputation as a dog breeder, consider using a professional shower. To become known as a leading expert in this field, you only have to produce winners. By using someone who has a good track record, you can increase your chances of winning and build your business faster.

7. Start With Local Dog Shows

When you feel like you know your stuff, start off with a local dog show to gain experience. After your dog has won a few ribbons at this level, move up to the next circuit. Before you know it, you’ll both be old hands at the dog-show game and offering advice to the next newcomer.

This guest post is brought to you by Hot Dog Collars, an online retailer specializing in dog collars and leather dog collars as well as other pet related products.

As much as we love our dogs, we sometimes don’t know them very well. Some misunderstandings arise from our desire to treat them like hairy humans. Others have just found their way into popular belief through repetition over time.

Build up your canine IQ by learning the truth behind these misconceptions.

Myth # 1: Dogs mouths are cleaner than ours. 

Well, that depends on your definition of clean.  If by “clean” you mean that dogs have more enzymes than we do to fight bacteria and defend against microorganisms that enter through the mouth, then this statement is technically true. However, if by “clean” you mean sanitary enough to kiss you on the mouth… well, think again.  Much of what goes on around a dog’s mouth never makes it as far as the enzymes. Your dog carries on his snout the traces of his greeting other dogs—and they aren’t shaking hands.  Bits of dog food, water from the toilet and that smelly thing he found in the yard—they are all there.

Myth #2: Dogs will instinctively avoid eating something that will make them sick.

No, they won’t. Every veterinarian has horror stories of dogs that have lapped up tasty antifreeze or scarfed down a basket of Easter chocolate. Know what is poisonous to your dog and make sure it’s safely out of reach. You can find a list of things that are toxic to your dog on the ASPCA website: http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/poison-control/top-10-pet-poisons-of-the-year.aspx.

Myth #3: Dogs are carnivorous, so they only need meat.

Yes, carnivores eat meat, but most carnivores in the wild get their meat on the hoof. In other words, the meat they eat eats plants. And when wild carnivores eat another animal, they also ingest the contents of that animal’s stomach: plants. Except for the random squirrel, dogs rarely eat anything with a stomach. So for good dog nutrition, provide a food that incorporates both meat and vegetables.  Most commercially prepared dog foods provide the right balance of ingredients.

Myth #4: Dogs will only eat as much as they need.

If this were true, there would be no market for diet dog food.  Like humans, dogs often eat more than they need. And to make matters worse, the average dog doesn’t really get enough exercise to work it off. As a result, many become overweight and are susceptible to a host of weight related health problems.  Talk to your vet about the proper amount of food to keep you dog at a healthy weight. And don’t give in to those sad, starved looking eyes.

While some misconceptions about dogs are harmless enough, others are unhealthy or dangerous. Don’t accept popular wisdom when it comes to keeping your pet safe. Learn everything you can, and when in doubt, consult your veterinarian.

Just as in people, some situations cause irrational fear responses in pets. Noise phobia is a frequent example in dogs, especially in response to storms and fireworks. Since frightened animals can be a danger to themselves (as well as to other animals and people), it is important to manage their fears as effectively as possible.

Recognize the signs of noise phobia in dogs

Some common signs of noise phobia in dogs include:

- Shaking or drooling

- Urinating and defecating

- Barking, whining or panting

- Staying very close to their owner

- Destructive behavior or trying to escape

Five ways to help your dog overcome a noise phobia

Desensitization

This involves gradually exposing your dog to the offending noise in order to desensitize him. Play a recording of the noise at increasing intensity to determine the volume that begins to cause a negative response. Although difficult, avoid soothing him when he shows fear – distract him instead by playing or giving commands. When he responds to commands, praise him or give him a treat so he associates the reward with his positive behavior. Repeat this daily for short sessions – when he no longer shows fear at a certain intensity, increase it during the next session. Continue in this way until he stops fearing the noise, or until his anxiety is minimal. Be careful not to reward him if he shows fear, and above all, avoid scolding him.

Counterconditioning

This involves training him to associate the frightening event with something positive. For example, give him his favorite treat only during firework events. Eventually he begins to experience a positive reaction to whatever previously caused him fear.

Increased exercise

In addition to his regular daily exercise, follow an increased exercise regime on a day when the offending noise is expected. This will tire him and elevate the body’s serotonin levels – both may hopefully have some natural sedative effects.

Reduce the noise

Some simple but effective ways to reduce the offending noise:

- Relocate your pet to a room where the noise intensity might be lower

- Close all windows

- Competing “safe” noises for distraction, such as a TV, radio or white noise

Medication

Anti-anxiety medications can be incredibly helpful. Severe phobias can be very distressing for a dog, and for the owner to witness. In such instances, medications can help to keep your pet calm. Additionally, they can be useful as you try to desensitize and countercondition him. Various types of drugs are available for animals, just as in people, and some that are commonly used include fluoxetine, diazepam, clomipramine and amitryptiline.

For owners who prefer homeopathic remedies, Phosphorous PHUS 30C or Aconitum Napellus 30C are alternative treatment options.

Although phobias result from situations that pose no actual danger to our pets, the intense fear that they experience can be debilitating for both animal and owner. Treatment of the phobia should therefore be attempted. Even though it may not be possible to cure your pet’s phobia, it can typically be managed quite well by a combination of treatment methods. Even though phobias are time-consuming and frustrating to deal with, progress can be made if you work consistently with your pet, and this can be very rewarding for both of you.

This article was provided by the wireless dog containment systems experts at www.dogfencediy.com

I first stumbled upon Bodywork for Dogs by Lynn Vaughan and Debora Jones while I was searching Netflix for instructional DVD’s that would help me increase my bond with Scout (my black lab, rot mix) as well as increase his mobility. You see I’ve been spending more and more time away from home, and him, and so he has not been getting as much exercise as he once did, also he is almost nine years old and just not as active. This DVD was exactly what I was looking for. I put it in my queue right away.

A few days later I found it in my mailbox. I watched the entire DVD before including Scout. I’ll be honest as excited as I was to learn it was hard to give it my full attention. It starts with a rather long introduction about Lynn Vaughan and her beliefs and ideas about animals and of course her accomplishments in massage and acupressure. The narrators are very quiet and calm. It reminded me of my yoga DVD.

Once the instruction began my excitement was renewed. Lynn Vaughan worked on a dog while the narrator explained what she was doing, how to communicate nonverbally with your dog, and why it is helpful for the dog. There was a lot of information and it was very beneficial for me to see the techniques in action on real dogs. Lynn also used different dogs of varying breeds and sizes and the narrator gave suggested variations for different sized dogs other than the one shown.

The DVD is longer than I expected, about 70 minutes, and it felt much longer when I watched it alone, however when I worked along with Lynn on Scout I found myself very relaxed and in a calm content mood. Scout and I were both nervous at first. He kept looking at me and I swear he was anticipating something because I was nervous, but once he realized that it was all about him he settled down into a clam relaxed position and allowed me to work. I only did a few simple segments with him at first but over a week I think I tried everything the DVD showed. Scout loved it! And now he will come lay down on my lap in a relaxed position and exhale with a little grunt to let me know he is ready. It is the cutest, funniest thing he does lately. I was really worried that all the time apart would cause our bond to weaken but it is as strong as ever.

I mentioned earlier that I found this DVD on Netflix; unfortunately it is not a play instantly so you would have to have it mailed. If you don’t have a Netflix account and still want to see it you could try your local Library. Ask the librarian if the DVD is available or if it could be mailed from a different library (most libraries are connected and trade or share their inventories to save money). If that also fails the DVD sells on Amazon for around $30.00 and the VHS for around $10.00.

The following is a list given on the DVD;

Benefits for Dogs

• General health and well being
• Enhances every system of the body; circulatory, respiratory, digestive, nervous, lymphatic, immune system
• Relieves stress by increasing relaxation
• Prevents injury
• Increases flexibility
• Balances body structure and movement
• Rehabilitation from surgery, emotional and physical injuries
• Improves awareness, communication, and trust
• Helps in addressing behavior issues

Benefits for Humans

• Increases knowledge of your dog’s body
• Empowers you to participate in your dog’s health, healing and quality of life
• Lowers your blood pressures
• Influences your immune system
• Provides time for silence and reflection
• Fosters connection with all life

“All things are poison, and nothing is without poison;
only the dose permits something not to be poisonous.”
Or, more commonly “The dose makes the poison.” Paracelsus

Before you even start to read the rest of this article, please take note of the following:

• Asian dog breeds, such as Akita, Chow-Chow and Shiba Inu among others, have an extremely low tolerance to garlic, and other onion, products. Never feed anything that contains garlic and / or onion to a dog of this breed.

• Before adding garlic to your dog’s diet, always consult first with your vet.

• The information presented in this article has been carefully researched, nevertheless, no responsibility by the author or site owner can be taken for what YOU do with it.

Having said all this, lets get to the nitty-gritty details regarding garlic and dogs For a long time garlic was fed to dogs, and other animals, with the idea of preventing ticks, fleas, worms and for other health benefits. Recently this practice has come under discussion. While some defend garlic for dogs, others declare it to be a huge health risk and even speak about ‘poisoning’ your dogs when feeding it.

This article aims to look at the studies done in this field and also at the possible health benefits regarding garlic. One word of warning, there is a huge hype going on about this on the internet, mostly people regurgitating content they have read and heard ‘somewhere’, without stating clearly the source of their information. At the bottom of this article, you’ll find a list of reference links to primary sources like university studies etc regarding ‘dogs and garlic’, please take your time to read them and verify the information in them for yourself.

Also make sure, before you change anything in your dogs’ diet, to first get  your vets approval to do so. No responsibility can be taken by PetsbyPets and its authors for the use you make of this information! And now lets get started to cut through the hype and hysteria, shall we

Can Dogs Eat Garlic?

The short answer is, yes, some can eat it in small doses, others shouldn’t eat it at all! The whole discussion started with a study published by the AVMA (American Journal of Veterinary Research), see resources below for link, that found that a dose of 5g garlic per kg body weight per day given for seven days caused certain alterations in the dogs blood cells, especially Heinz bodies and eccentrocytes were found, but without causing hemolytic anemia.

This study included 8 healthy adult dogs of mixed breed and the blood tests were done during the first seven days and after 30 days. The study concludes therefore that dogs shouldn’t be given garlic at all. Bearing in mind that one average garlic clove weights approximately 4g, this means that an average sized dog of 25kg / 50lbs was given a bit more than 30 cloves of garlic daily during the study!!! Not an amount of garlic a normal dog owner would ever feed his or her dog on a daily basis In comparison, Dr. Pitcairn (Richard Pitcairn, D.V.M., Ph.D.), the author of ‘The Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs and Cats’ recommends a daily amount of 2 clove for a dog of the same size.

The problem with garlic is that it contains n-propyldisulfide which can, in large doses, cause oxidation damage to red blood cells, creating Heinz bodies and triggering the body to reject these cells from the bloodstream. And if the ingestion of these large doses of garlic continues over a long time, this can indeed lead to a life threatening anemia in the dog.

The keyword here is dosage! The study above showed that even if a 25kg / 50lbs dog eats 125g garlic daily, differences in the blood cells can be only seen under the microscope and in the laboratory, but they don’t provoke any clinical symptoms. If the dog eats only the recommended maximum dose of garlic daily, or even less, the chance that Heinz bodies develop in an otherwise healthy dog is extremely low as red blood cells are continuously regenerated, discarded and built by the bone marrow.

As already mentioned,certain Asiatic dog breeds are an exception to the rule, as they suffer from an inherited form of pseudohyperkalemia (increased levels of potassium in the blood) which in turn causes the membranes of the red blood cells to be more sensitive to the toxic effects of garlic and other members of the onion family. Obviously other dog breeds that suffer from other forms of anemia shouldn’t get any garlic neither. The same is true for young dogs and puppies whose blood building system hasn’t matured completely yet. And, as garlic, even in low doses, has a blood thinning effect, it shouldn’t be given up to two weeks before a planned surgery.

Is Garlic Good for Dogs? Health Benefits!

Unfortunately no study has been made so far that looks at the long term benefits of feeding a low dose of garlic to dogs. On the other hand empirical evidence exists in form of the experiences of holistic and / or homeopathic veterinarians, experienced dog breeders and owners that have shown that a low regular dose of garlic can help to prevent flea and tick infestation without the negative side effects of many over the counter ‘spot-on’ medicines. As for prevention and treatment of intestinal worms, I found a very small study (see link below) that proved the effectiveness of garlic in at least one case.

Other health benefits reported by holistic vets and experienced by dog owners are that Garlic:

• Boosts the immune system and can help to prevent cancer.

• Is a natural remedy for viral, fungal or bacterial infections.

• Fights parasites such as worms.

• Prevents and repels flea and tick infestation.

• Is a natural detox and strengthens the liver.

• Lowers triglyceride and cholesterol levels in the blood.

• Helps to prevent the blood from clotting (thrombosis and arteriosclerosis) and improves the overall blood circulation. But this, desired effect, becomes a negative side effect, as already mentioned, when surgery is necessary as the blood will need more time to clot.

• Is a natural antioxidant.

• Helps to regulate blood sugar levels, important in diabetic dogs.

• Helps digestion and increases appetite. Not always an advantage with all dogs

But What About All The Horror Stories

True case studies of garlic poisoning in dogs are rare and every single one I found had one thing in common: An accidental ingestion of a large amount, read many times the dose used in the study mentioned above, of prepared garlic or food meant for human consumption that contained a lot of it. Fried or otherwise heated garlic looses his sharp taste and becomes very palpable for some dogs.

Other, even more anecdotal, stories are those submitted by dog owners whose dog had eaten ‘something’ that contained garlic, but also other foods or additives that could be toxic to dogs depending on the amount eaten. Just because there was garlic in the food and the dog became ill, doesn’t necessarily mean that the garlic was the reason for the illness. A good thing to do would be to ask your own vet how many cases of true garlic poisoning s/he has seen during her working life as a veterinarian. You might hear more often than not – None!

Personal Experience and Suggestion for Garlic Dosage

Looking back at our family history, we always had dogs and we always gave them a small amount of garlic in their food on a regular basis. Over three generations of being dog owners, breeders and trainers none of us can remember one single incident of garlic poisoning in our dogs, but plenty of dogs that lived to the ripe old age of 18 years! Our ‘garlic food regime’ is the following, but remember before you adapt it for your dog, ask your vet!

• We always give only fresh garlic that has been crushed directly before feeding, we don’t use garlic pills for dogs.

• We start giving garlic around the age of 16 weeks, in a very small dose of ¼ garlic clove per week per dog. Giving it always on the same day makes it easier to remember

• The amount of garlic given is increased as the dog gains weight, up to 1clove per week per 25kg / 50lbs of dog or the closest thereof.

That’s it! As far away from the toxic level as the moon is from the earth and even less than recommended by many vets and dog nutrition specialists. In short we aim to give the dogs the minimum amount of garlic possible that still provides all the health benefits (no fleas, ticks, worms etc) we are after. Depending on your circumstances, your dog might need slightly more, again consult your vet!

Oh, and we don’t have any dogs of Asian breeds, if we did, we wouldn’t give them garlic!

Summary

• If your dog, or one of its ancestors, belongs to some of the Japanese dog breeds (Akita Inu, Shiba Inu or similar) don’t feed it even the smallest amount of garlic.

• Small puppies and/or very small toy dogs shouldn’t get any garlic either, it might upset their tummies.

• If you want to feed your dog garlic to prevent flea and tick problems, limit the dose according to his body weight and always consult with your vet first.

• If you are already regularly feeding your dog small amount of garlic without problems, don’t worry, just remember to stop feeding it before any planned surgery.

In conclusion, garlic has for a long time, been used in the holistic treatment and nutrition of dogs. Provided that the amount is small proportionally to his body weight and your dog doesn’t belong to one of the hypersensitive breeds the health benefits outweigh the risk. Like always, the dose makes something a poison. And, if in doubt, always consult first with your vet and/or a dog nutrition professional.

Research Links:

• Garlic Toxicity Study

• ‘Safety of dietary supplements for horses, dogs, and cats‘ By National Research Council (U.S.). Committee on Examining the Safety of Dietary Supplements for Horses, Dogs, and Cats. See chapter 8.

• Garlic Against Worms Study

Feeding our families a healthy balanced diet is no easy task and neither is finding a healthy balanced dog food. Speak to the most experienced/knowledgeable animal nutritionist and chances are they won’t give you a brand of dog food to buy but will give you a vague idea of the type of food to look for and tell you to go read the labels!

Why? Well, not all dogs are the same. They have different nutritional requirements and there is no food, which is best for all dogs.  Some dogs have allergies or intolerances to certain foodstuffs and others may have health problems. Their lifestyles also need to be factored in, the Border Collie who is out working all day will need a different diet to the Bichon Frise who spends most of their time on their owners lap watching TV.

The majority of people would love to be told which dog food to buy, go get it and take comfort in the fact that they’re feeding their dog the ‘best’ food. Unfortunately, it’s not this easy.  Dogs are individuals and what is good for one will not be for another.

The best person to choose suitable food for a dog is their owner.  Even a dog put on a diet of what seems to be the healthiest of dog foods will need to be monitored for their reaction to it.  Some dogs will do great on a particular food, have shiny glossy coats, bright eyes and good energy levels and others won’t suit it at all.

Feeding our dogs a balanced healthy diet is a very important part of dog ownership. It is a massive factor in a dog’s health, quality of life and even their behaviour. Manufacturers of dog food would all have you believe that ‘their’ food is the best and sometimes it couldn’t be further from the truth.

There are lots of factors to consider when shopping for dog food. Not only do you have to look at your dog as an individual such as their health, allergies and intolerances, for example, but you also have to consider their age and activity levels.  There is of course your budget, location and availability of particular dog foods to take into account.

Where dog food is concerned, the saying that you get what you pay for is certainly true. Good quality ingredients can be expensive and will be reflected in the price of the food. Cheap foods will most certainly contain cheap fillers, which won’t have much nutritional value for your pet and possibly also contain meat by-products which aren’t actually meat.

There are lots of advantages to feeding dogs complete dry foods.  Including; cost, time saved not having to prepare meals, control over the amount they eat and being able to feed a nutritionally balanced diet. However, labels on dog food can be extremely confusing and have to be read very carefully to actually decipher the contents.

Dog food must be labelled with ingredients and the general rule is that the highest quantity of ingredients will be first on the list, with the next highest quantity ingredient listed after and so on. Some manufacturers will even list the percentages the protein and carbohydrate ingredients.

Chicken, lamb or beef means the good part of the meat. Listing the meat as meal means that the clean parts of the meat have been finely ground.  Bone meal is the finely ground bones of that particular animal.

Meat by-products are parts, which are not considered fit for human consumption and can include organs and intestines. Digest of beef and poultry by-products are even less unappetizing. With beef it can include chemically removed fatty tissue and with chickens, heads and feet! Meat and animal derivatives can cover all sorts of animal by-products so you have no idea at all what’s in there.

Some dog foods even include derivatives of vegetable origin, and this does not mean just vegetables but anything that has originated from a vegetable such as compost!

Labelling dog food with meat and animal derivatives enables the manufacturers to change the source of protein so different batches of food can come from different animals and labelling food with derivatives of vegetable origin enables them to hide all sorts in there!  If you see foods labelled with meat by-products and derivatives then steer clear as you have no idea what that food really contains.

You will also need to be aware of vitamins, minerals, additives and preservatives in the food.  Pet food does need preservatives but try and find a pet food with natural preservatives such as Vitamin E rather than ethoxyquin, BHT or BHA, which can have the same effect on our dogs as E numbers on our children.

Choosing the right food for your pet is difficult enough, but in this climate we also have to be savvy when it comes to actually buying it. So once you’ve decided on a brand of dog food how do you go about shopping for it?

• Look directly at the manufacturer’s website and see if there’s any offers of discount/free delivery if you order food directly from them.
• Ask the manufacturers for a list of stockists. Check out the Internet based stockists as well as any pet shops local to you and compare prices, don’t forget to include the cost of delivery for Internet stores.
• Look for independent pet and garden centres or livestock stores, independent retailers can sometimes sell products much cheaper and may even offer discount for bulk purchases.
• Sign up to any loyalty clubs, often manufacturers will provide discounts for consistent customers.
• Take advantage of offers such as discounts on pet food for recommending them to others.
• Follow them on Twitter or ‘like’ their Facebook page, companies will often post discount codes on social media sites for their followers or fans to use.
• Check out voucher code sites for manufacturers coupons/discount codes and for places which stock the food too.

About the author: Kate Bailey is a full-time mom and pet lover who frequently writes on behalf of brands like Rotastak and Pet365 – a UK stockist of dog beds, collars, leads and accessories.